The Lost Dot 101 bikepacking race was the inaugural FLINTA (Female, Lesbian, Intersex, non-binary, Trans and Agender people) only event organised by Lost Dot who organise the prestigious Transcontinental race (TCR). I’d always been curious about the TCR but didn’t want to fully commit to something that long and the idea of being surrounded by like minded people at the 101 event made it easier to feel like I belonged on the start line.
The route started in Santiago del Compostela and finished in Cordoba roughly 1300km with 23,000m+ climbing. There were a number of compulsory sections of route called Parcours with free routing in between check points so no ones route would be identical.
After a winter of training I flew to Porto with my new friend Lizelle from Hervelo Cycling who was taking on their first ultra event. We’d spent the winter training together and sharing ideas on packing, training and tactics. Over three days we rode to Santiago del Compostela on a mix of busy roads, quieter roads and the Camino trail. The Camino was full of friendly walkers and we giggled saying “Bon Camino” repeatedly so we could pass on the champagne gravel.
Highlight from the ride to the start, plenty of ice cream and cafe stops
I had a few days resting and exploring the city before the event started. I was a bundle of nerves but kept reminding myself that I’d put in the work; 10-20 hr weeks building my fitness, riding through Scottish winter and my longest ever ride.
On Sunday morning I left the apartment as close to check out as possible, it would be just me and my bike for the foreseeable future with no strict plans apart from moving southwards. I was a bundle of nerves at registration and bike check so took myself away to a quaint cafe to breathe before the event briefing.
Nervous registration photo looking fresh and clean
Helen, Lizelle and I wasted the few hours before the start in a cafe eating, drinking, anticipating the night ahead. With the heavy rain forecast emphasis was on riding through the night but I was less sure.
All riders gathered by the cathedral in sunshine and a mix of waterproofs waiting to finally be on our way, people taking photos enveloped in nervous energy. When the clock struck 6pm we started ringing our bells and pushed off finally on our way.
The first section was a compulsory 170km parcours and for the first 20km I was surrounded by other riders. I paced myself on the climbs but caught up with people on the descents trying not to go too hard too soon. The rain started after an hour and did not relent. After 25km my Garmin did a factory reset from the rain so I had to stop and re-start it which was quite annoying as other riders past me stopped at the side of the road. I used a spare sandwich bag held in place with a hair bobble to protect the garmin.
It quickly got dark and the riders thinned out but the rain continued. I found descending in the dark on new roads unnerving mixed with slick wet roads an added challenge. But I took my time and kept persisting. After 50km I found an open bar with riders outside so I took the opportunity to wolf down some pasta and warm up before carrying on into the night. I walked into the packed bar dripping wet and joined a table of riders, we were the oddity among the locals watching their football.
After 80km there was another village with a water fountain so I stopped to fill up my bottles. I passed the local bar which had bikes lined up outside with sheltering riders inside. I was relieved to see Lizelle’s bike as things seemed to be going to her plan. I continued on riding as I’d marked a few bus stops that I thought I could shelter in for the evening. The first was occupied by another rider but the second was free, it wasn’t much but I needed a rest out of the rain. I quickly removed my wet layers and pulled on my warm clothes, rolled out my mat and bivy and did my best to get warm. In my plan to go lightweight I’d only brought a half length mat and thick sleeping bag liner rather than a full sleeping bag. So I propped up my feet on my tailfin and snuggled down into the bag. It was cold and I don’t think I slept but I listened to my audiobook; Coffee First then the world by Jenny Graham and took comfort in suffering with her.
I got up at 0430 to no rain but a cold mist, so I dressed in my waterproofs, packed up quickly whilst eating a snack and got on my way. I’d stopped near the top of a climb so it was mainly cold descending for the first hour but I’d dressed appropriately. I took my time descending in the dark, round various switch backs as I passed riders bivying at the side of the road, some the bus stops that I had marked. The descent was pretty bumpy in places but by this time daylight was creeping in and I could see a bit more.
I descended into the village of Peares where I knew there was a water fountain but only saw the sign not suitable for human consumption after filling my first bottle up. It was good to stop and de-layer before the climbing started again. I’d spent a lot of time scoping the route at home for resupply and accommodation using google maps and it was a relief when the railway bridge appeared with a tiny pavement at the side for me to scoot across like I’d imagined in the comfort of my own home. From here the route followed the Rio Sil swooping round corners with views opening up of the surrounding hills. Another rider caught up with me at the start of the climb and we leap frogged each other as we stopped to snack and de-layer. The climb was a long gradual one back up to 800m over 20km but it was surprisingly enjoyable taking my time, enjoying the view and eating as I went.
View from the top of the climb near Parada de Sil
I stopped at a cafe to use the facilities, marked by other riders’ bikes, at Parada de Sil and bumped into another rider who shared stories of someone being hypothermic the night before. The weather had been challenging for everyone but it was sunny for now. I now descended towards the end of the parcours in a relief to finish route 1 out of 13 on my Garmin. As I approached the end of the route the climbing began again so I was glad to stop and reload the next route.
From here I was on my own route that I’d planned myself and felt a bit nervous that I’d made a sensible route but was relieved when I saw a few other riders. After stopping at a petrol station the climbing continued and the dog encounters began. They mainly barked from the side of the road and would sometimes follow me. When this happened I jumped off my bike and walked with it between myself and the dog. On one occasion a sheep dog came running at me through the fence, barked, I stopped, then it ran back and continued to bark from me behind the fence, I was grateful it turned around. In the early afternoon I was climbing slowly when a dog ran up beside me and I did my usual jump off and walk but a rider behind assured me the dog was friendly as it had been following them for some time. We were unsure what to do but when a tractor came past the dog seemed to recognise it and left us alone.
The rain had stopped for sometime now and I still had my waterproof socks on which were rubbing my feet, especially the boney bit on my left foot that sticks out which was very sore. I stopped to change my socks and eat some snacks feeling like my body was letting me down. As I crested the next climb the heavens opened and it was like being in a shower. The rain was so heavy it was difficult to see and the tarmac slick so I descended slowly. I descended into A Guinda, a village on my route with good resupply options, I stopped at the local bar which was closed but sat out the rain to consider my options. I was soaked through and not having a good time, tired and sore so I headed down the road and checked into the local hotel.
It was such a relief to get into my room that I burst into tears and spent the next half an hour charging devices and peeling the wet layers off before having a shower. I was in full on toddler tantrum mode, not getting enough sleep and running on fumes. I sent messages to friends and Jon, my coach whom I shared my disappointment with in my body and how much distance I’d covered. He responded that I was doing well to rest, regroup and go again tomorrow.
All felt better after some food and snacks from the garage next door. I vowed to set an early alarm and see what tomorrow brought. Since starting I’d ridden 255km with 5,700m of climbing, no wonder I was tired.
I missed my 0430 alarm but was wide awake at 0600 in a panic as I only had until lunchtime to make it to CP1. I drank chocolate milk as I dressed and packed my bags eager to get on the road. It was apparent that I really wanted this despite last night’s tantrum and was going to give it my best shot.
Before leaving my Garmin malfunctioned so I stopped to reset the settings as I planned to stick to zone 2 and snack regularly and needed the eat reminders. I started rolling and I felt ok, it was still raining but I was on a mission to get to the check point and had some freshness in my legs. The route was down-dulating so progress was good until I missed a turn due to reading my Garmin under a plastic bag but this was a free route not a compulsory route so I re-routed myself and swiftly got back on track.
I routed myself straight to the Lidl in Braganca, something I’d been looking forward to since the start, pastries, chocolate milk and iced tea were on the menu along with my daily pack of oreos. I had a new fueling strategy of one oreo on the half hour followed by a chorizo stick on the hour, sweet and salty and easy to eat. I bumped into the Lost Dot team also refuelling in Lidl and they got my ramblings about my love of Lidl and chocolate milk for the podcast.
CP1 Braganca 2/13 routes complete, still smiling in full waterproofs
I was happy to make CP1 before lunchtime and get my first stamp on my card. Here I used the facilities, shared updates with friends and bumped into Helen. Helen had punctured on night one and was debating going to the bike shop. I gave her a big hug and wished her well, unable to help under the rules of the event.
I was on a high leaving the Check point and the roads were fast. After 2hours I stopped under cover for some Lidl bakery products, the rain had stopped but the road was wet so I kept the layers on. I overtook a pair of riders on a swooping descent got to use the free speed when it comes. They caught up with me as I delayered on the next climb and we shared stories from the road. I stopped at a wee shop in Mogadouro to resupply and messaged Jon. He was pleased to see me on my way and said keep doing what I was doing, so I had to keep eating everything in sight. Another rider joined me at the shop and we were grateful that the rain was stopping and the sun coming out finally. I decided at this point to book accommodation in Pinhel some 100kms away.
Photo of me on swing
I soon turned off to the start of Parcours A down an old road that deteriorated into gravel, now I love riding gravel but had to remind myself I was on slicks with my ‘house’ on board so took it slowly. A grand viewpoint and a swing marked the end of the road so I stopped for a swing and a stretch before continuing on my way. The gravel climb back to the road was straight forward enough with only one stop to retrieve an item that bounced off my bike. After 10km I turned off the main road and began descending steeply towards the river at the bottom of a gorge. It was beautiful but the tight steep switch backs required all my attention. I was relieved to reach the bottom to admire the view and cool my brake pads but the climb back out was steep and sustained in places at 13% gradient.
I was happy to approach Freixo de Espada a Cinta marking the end of the Parcours with a final cobbled climb up to the castle and a square. Here I met two other riders in the bar where we filled up our bottles and drank coke before the final push for the night. From here my route descended smoothly for 20km and I thought I’d be at my accommodation in plenty of time, what I hadn’t appreciated was the 15km climb that followed. The climb was spectacular and I felt grateful as I wiggled my way uphill in the golden light of the day. This was what I was here for; riding from dawn til dusk.
As the darkness came my legs slowed andI kept willing myself forward to the accommodation that I’d booked but I kept stopping to snack . I came into a town that I didn’t mark for accommodation and regretted it as I still had 20km to Pinhel. A rider caught up with me and they were complaining about being hungry so stopped at a bar, they reminded me I’d paid for the accommodation so should press on.
The last 20km was a winding descent in the darkness which I took very slowly followed by a gradual climb to Pinhel, where I’d be staying for the night. On the final climb a rider from earlier caught up with me and reminded me that other people were still out riding, this gave me more motivation to keep going.
Pinhel was deserted and I used my phone to navigate to the accommodation. It was past 11pm and I was exhausted. My accommodation was up a little cobbled lane which I ended up pushing uphill toward. The host had left instructions in Portuguese which took a lot of time and patience to decipher. In my exhausted state, I felt like a drunkard trying to get into bed at the end of a long night. I finally got in my room and began the admin process; charging and washing whilst eating simultaneously. Today I covered 260km with 4,500m climbing, another huge day on the bike.
The next morning I woke early but stayed in bed as I needed to wait for the supermarket to open to re supply. I messaged Lizelle as I’d managed to catch up with her, she was thinking about scratching but would push on to CP2 before making a decision. I was grateful for the sunny start and felt like I was getting into my rhythm now.
I refuelled, picking up some chamomile lotion as I’d left my sudocrem behind at the first hotel. Progress was fast as I descended towards the Serra de Estrella National park but this was short lived as I climbed for the final 20km towards CP2 at Linhares, some sections over 10%. I made it to CP2 for another stamp in the sunshine where I quickly turned around before hitting the road again.
Snacking at CP2, Linhares
I descended from the Checkpoint in good spirits, grateful to be descending once again. I’d opted for the less direct but more gradual climb to the start of the next
parlours. In Gouveia I stopped for a coke, sandwich and ice cream sitting outside briefly in the sunshine and booked my accommodation for the night in Covilha at the bottom of the next Parcours. From here I began climbing for 20km, stopping every 30mins to eat as the fatigue was building.
As I descended to the start of Parcours B it got colder so I stopped to put on layers. I reached where I thought was the start of the Parcours then began retracing my route uphill. I’d stopped to cover my Garmin from the rain when I was overtaken by a pair from earlier who mentioned the landslide near the start of the Parcour, shared by the organisers. I hadn’t seen a landslide so I stopped to confirm if I’d gone to the right spot. I decided to turn around and descend to the landslide before turning around again. In hindsight this was wrong as I’d started at the right spot but I was confused by the message from the organisers and didn’t want to miss the Parcours and be disqualified. This cost me an hour of time and in hindsight I regret the decision to turn back.
The route started with a gentle climb followed by a switch back descent to Sabugueiro in the wind and intermittent rain. I thought I heard thunder and lightning at one point but it sounded very far in the distance so I didn’t worry too much. As I started the climb I caught up with two other riders also pushing on over this 20km 1000m climb. My legs felt good but I was tired so I kept plugging away and making slow progress upwards. I remembered Jon’s words; “one pedal stroke at a time”. At halfway, after darkness had fallen, a police car stopped to tell me there was snow at the top and tried to encourage me to turn around. I decided to continue as my hotel was on the other side of the peak and my minimal bivy would not keep me warm at these temperatures and there was no shelter to be found. In hindsight I could have turned around and descended to Sabugueiro and tried to find accommodation.
I pressed on into the dark mist watching the snow stakes at the side of the road, counting my pedal strokes as I went; 50 turns on the right leg followed by 10 out the saddle, repeat. I had to stop a few times to eat but as it was cold (probably close to zero degrees) these stops were minimal as I was warm when I was moving. Before the summit there was a short descent but with visibility so poor I turned my front light up to full and counted the snow stakes as I went.
This was a real moment of survival as I pushed on to the summit at 2000m, approaching 2200. The rain had stopped and it was eerily quiet in the mist. I thought about my husband at home and his recent diagnosis that had reshaped our priorities over the past year. I wanted to get home safely to him and complete this challenge for him as he’d begun to struggle with endurance. I started singing to myself. Every time I got cold I’d say out loud “let’s get a wiggle on” and do a short sprint uphill. I noticed a dusting of snow at the side of the road but not on the road and as I looked to my left saw two bikes abandoned at the side of the road, maybe the owners had got caught in a storm and got a lift, I had no idea.
At the summit there was a dusting of snow on the road that my tires occasionally crunched through, but no sign of the visitors center and restaurant I’d spied on google maps, just me and the dark mist. I stopped to put on all my layers; gilet, buff, puffy jacket, waterproofs and marigold gloves over the top of my soaked gloves, doing a bit of a dance as I went to keep warm. As I started the descent I stopped to talk to the two riders behind me. They were not having a good time but would do the same as me, put on all their layers before descending and we would message each other when we’d got down safely.
From here it was a 20km descent to Covilha to my room for the night on what I presume are beautiful switchbacks in the daytime. To my relief the snow was short lived but the road was wet so I was very careful descending. I counted every pulse I made with my breaks untilI got to 100 then repeated to keep my mind busy. I’d consciously wiggle my toes to stay warm and I stopped a few times to do the “penguin” shrugging my shoulders vigorously and shaking my arms to keep my hands warm. At one point a car overtook me with the window down and shouted; “are you ok?” I replied “I’m fine”, or as fine as I could be, I was using all the tricks from many years of expeditions and ski instructing to stay warm and focused.
Relieved to make it to Covilha
As I descended it got warmer and I was grateful to finally get to the bright lights of Covilha. I navigated using my phone to my hotel, conscious of traffic lights and other cars. Just before reaching my hotel I saw an open bar with bakery products so I dashed in to buy my dinner. As I wheeled my bike into reception I was relieved with the warmth that came over me. I made a complete mess emptying my bags to find my passport to check in, much to the receptionists dismay. But I made it, I survived the mountain and would start my usual routine of charging, washing, eating and sleeping.
Total distance today 173km 3,800m not as far as I’d liked due to the set back with the parcours start location.
Reflecting back I have mixed thoughts about this cold encounter, I managed myself well and I survived the experience and kind of enjoyed it in a sadistic way. However, I wouldn’t have pushed myself that hard had it not been for the event and making the cut off times. This experience was showing me what I’m made of and it seemed to be pretty strong for now.
I began riding at 0830 the next morning after a hotel breakfast. The first few hours went by without a hiccup as the roads were pretty flat in comparison to the previous days. I’d noticed issues with my Di2 shifter the day before but decided to ignore it until 3hrs into the ride my shifters stopped working. After a quick stop to change the battery, something I’d practised in training, I was on my way again.
After 40km I stopped at a supermarket to resupply, making the most of the shade as it was a scorcher today. Then again after 75km for a cold drink and chocolate bar, sadly the petrol station didn’t have ice creams. Last night was catching up on me and progress was slow with every climb a burden on the legs.
I was overtaken by a fellow rider whilst stopping in the shade to re-tie my shoe, something that became a habit at midday when my feet swelled up and needed relief. We would leap frog each other for the rest of the afternoon complaining of the heat, such a contrast to the beginning of the week. I stopped at a fountain in a village to refill my water and joined the locals also sitting in the shaded benches and I learnt a new phrase “agua potable” or drinking water.
After 130km I was really struggling with fatigue, so stopped in the shade for a snack and a lie down for 20 minutes. When I got back on my bike I realised I was a few kms from a petrol station. I stopped for a can of coke and chocolate milk and played turbo tunes whilst checking my phone. The Hervelo girls were cheering me on and so was Howard, an old friend from work who was dot watching at his desk. From here it was 20km to my hotel for the night and I knew I could ride the distance so got back on my bike and pedalled slowly.
Struggle bus fuel
I stopped just before my hotel for another chocolate milk and ice cream. I knew I was on the struggle bus today and needed to be kind to myself and keep eating. Today I’d crossed back into Spain from Portugal so lost an hour of daylight. I didn’t want a repeat of last night so I chose to have a big dinner ordering two mains before an early night.
Today I covered 154km with 2,300m climbing. Not ideal distances but I needed some rest.
On Friday morning I started riding before 0600, I had 20km of parcours C with 850m of climbing for breakfast. The climb was spectacular, quiet switchbacks rising up out the forest below. I adopted my long climb strategy stopping every 30mins to eat and drink.
Spectacular views from the switchbacks of Parcours C
At the summit I bumped into a pair of riders from the night before. It was their bikes that were abandoned on the Estrella climb, they’d been caught out in thunder and lightning so flagged down a car to get to safety but could not fit their bikes so they’d abandoned them in haste.
My route returned back down the way I’d climbed and on the descent I shared the road with an Ibex, a magnificent creature with gigantic horns, a truly special moment. This gave me energy to keep going.
I revisited the petrol station by last night’s hotel for a chocolate milk and tube of oreos. I was now on route 10 out of 13 on the Garmin, so close to completion. The roads got busier as I headed south and after 120km I stopped at a bar in Malpartida de Plasencia for a sandwich and double coke. From here the next 30km was a dream gently descending with a tailwind. I was flying and felt like a cycling machine. But as I climbed towards Romangordo the heat took the wind out my sails and I realised I was running out of water. I took a detour here to find water but didn’t find anything open. Fortunately, the bar in the next village replenished my bottles and sold me a Fanta orange that tasted great.
The road began to climb gently to the final parcours of the day and I realised I needed to get a move on if I was going to make the cut off time in Guadalupe of 2359 that evening. With 170km already in the legs this was a tall order but I kept pushing for an hour at a time. I stopped to refill my bottles at a fountain in Navezuelas and fill myself with sweets. I turned my phone on to see messages from friends wishing me on in awe of my progress, which gave me more energy somehow.
Now I’d been dreading the last climb of the day as from google maps it was a corrugated concrete road with 15% gradient in places. As I approached the final climb I kept scanning the horizon for where I was going and could see the radio tower in the distance up high above. As the corrugated climb started I pedalled hard and reminded myself of the Fred Whitton the previous year and ‘riding’ Hard Knott pass towards the end of the day. The sun was now setting and I climbed in beautiful golden light with the valley below. When I could I rode my bike and when I couldn’t I pushed and ate sweets, but I kept on moving to make the cut off in time.
The last section to the top was on tarmac so a relief but it too had some short sharp steep kickers. I saw another rider coming down who cheered me on, before stopping in the middle of the road to put more layers on; leg warmers and a puffy jacket I knew I’d need for the descent. Even on the tarmac I hiked my bike when the going got steep and the last push to the fence marked the end of the climb. I took the 15km descent to Guadalupe slowly but in the back of my mind I didn’t have long until the cut off so I kept focused on the mission at hand.
Unmanned checkpoint 3 photo, I’m sure there’s a spectacular Cathedral somewhere
I made it to the Cathedral in Guadalupe at 2330 with 30 minutes to spare. I’d seen that the Hervelo racing crew were watching my progress wishing me on to the cut off so I sent them a message that I’d made it just in time.
That evening I opted for a baby wipe wash to save time and maximise on sleep whilst I ate my ham baguette that I made at a supermarket earlier that day.
Day 5 stats; 242km with 4,429m climbing a huge day on tired legs
I began riding at 0530 on Saturday morning on route 12 out of 13, the end was close. It was the final day and 260km of road between me and the finish line. Jon had messaged reminding me one more day, I could do this. It was a cold dark start with a downward trend for the first 50km and I made good progress appreciating the sunrise.
Sunrise on the final morning, Cordoba I’m coming
I stopped in Talarrubias, 70km in for the usual resupply, it was early but already hot. I’d planned this section of route to take in some exciting roads crossing the Embalse de la Serena, the largest reservoir in the country. Locals had already flocked to the shores and were enjoying themselves when I stopped in the shade.
I stopped at a petrol station after 110km for more water, snacks and to hide in the shade. There was no shade as the roads were straight with little vegetation. I stopped again after 20km at another petrol station to repeat, I was struggling in the heat. As I rode through Belmez after 170km I felt like I was in familiar territory as I’d meticulously planned the route but I couldn’t find the water fountain marked in my notes so I continued on. In Villanueva del Rey after 185km at the water fountain some children told me the water was non potable. By now I realised I was running low on water and had 500ml to last me 25km so began to ration.
On the approach to Villaviciosa de Cordoba I was caught by a fellow rider I hadn’t seen for a few days. They’d been up earlier than me but were in good spirits that they would make it to the finish tonight. I descended to the village and found a bar in a square to refill my bottles and neck a coke. I was against the clock with the deadline to get to Cordoba for midnight. From here It was a beautiful wiggly descent through olive vines.
It was a relief to start the finish Parcours before 2000 as it was 40km with 800m climbing. The first 8km lulled me into a false sense of security, generally descending before a 3km climb. At the summit I stopped to wash my face in the water fountain and refresh. By now my face was puffy from fatigue which seemed to make my eyes more tired. The descent was amazing but I could feel my rear brake pads fading as I took my time enjoying every switchback. The final 6km climb was exhausting but spectacular all at once. It was sunset and the colours in the sky were spectacular but my legs had nothing left. At one point I decided to ride for 10minutes with a minute off and that’s what I did to the top of the climb. Here I added a layer and descended into the darkness. I reached a village after 5km and from here the road climbed again which was most upsetting as I thought it was all downhill from here. I stopped to eat as I was running on fumes and it was dark but reminded myself how close I was to finishing this thing.
The descent into Cordoba was fun even in the dark. But I was tired and knew I had to stay alert all the way to the finish line. The City was overwhelming and tricky to navigate in the dark, I nearly threw a tantrum on the final cobbled roads but kept going to the bike shop at the finish of the route. No one was there and my phone wasn’t working but another finisher walked by and gave me instructions as to how to get to the finishers party.
Helen shouted at me as I approached “fifty metres to go”, I was completely dazed and confused as I rode down the alleyway to the finishers party with everyone chanting my name. I was the last person to finish within the cut off so I was given a seat and celebrated. Lizelle and Helen gave me the biggest hugs with chocolate milk and grapes, the best support team I could ask for. Other riders from the road came to chat and congratulate me. I was a delirious mess who just needed to go to bed.
Delirious relief at the finish line, two oreos remaining
What an amazing feat I rode 1,347km with 24,368m climbing in 6.5 days, a phenomenal effort if I do say so myself.
The days proceeding were filled with admin and celebration. Being driven to Malaga by Lizelle with Helen and three bikes followed by sourcing cardboard bike boxes, celebratory dinner and packing the bikes with tired heads and rumbling bellies. At home for the week afterwards I kept eating and celebrating with friends, interspersed with afternoon naps and binge watching tv. I chose to do something really hard which has given me the confidence to deal with hard things in the future. And yes I’m probably slightly unhinged to put myself through something so challenging but this is what I want to do with this one wild and precious life we are given, live it to the fullest.
